Deadman Snow Anchor
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Equipment
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Description
A snow fluke (deadman) is a lightweight aluminum snow anchor designed for use in soft or unconsolidated snow where vertical anchors such as pickets may not hold well. The fluke is buried at an angle so that the load pulls it deeper into the snow, increasing its holding power.
Snow flukes are typically used for:
• Belays or rappels in soft snow
• Crevasse rescue anchors
• Anchors on glaciers with unconsolidated snow
• Situations where digging a buried picket (T-slot) would take longer
Best conditions:
Soft, deep snow where a picket placed vertically might pull out.
No suitable for:
Very firm or icy snow, where a snow picket or ice protection is usually stronger and faster to place.
Advantages
• Very strong in soft snow
• Faster than digging a buried picket
• Lightweight and simple
Limitations
• Not ideal in hard snow or ice
• Requires enough snow depth to bury properly
The Deadman snow anchor lets you make the most of this medium and improves on the classic ice axe belay by creating a larger surface area that increases resistance to the placement pulling through. Used in snow gullies and below cornice top outs, the Deadman creates protection out of nothing and provides security in the most insecure places. A t-slot picket is sometimes the preffered alternative.
Large surface area creates resistance to pull through even in soft snow
The large surface area of the Deadman resists being pulled through snow more effectively than an ice axe. This isn’t the strongest option, especially in soft snow. T-slotting a big picket is much more secure.
Lightening holes reduce weight
The Deadman features holes that reduce weight while retaining performance in marginal snow conditions. This means the Deadman won't weigh you down on the mountain where it might be the difference between having some protection and none at all.
Stainless steel striker plate protects Deadman from wear and tear
A stainless steel striking area protects the Deadman from damage when hammering it into the snow, and resists corrosion from the wet winter environment.
4mm galvanized wire creates a strong attachment point
A steel wire loop allows the Deadman to be buried deeply beneath snow while retaining an accessible and strong attachment point.
Specifications
Product Name: Deadman
Product Code: A1300
Weight: 360 g
Snow flukes are typically used for:
• Belays or rappels in soft snow
• Crevasse rescue anchors
• Anchors on glaciers with unconsolidated snow
• Situations where digging a buried picket (T-slot) would take longer
Best conditions:
Soft, deep snow where a picket placed vertically might pull out.
No suitable for:
Very firm or icy snow, where a snow picket or ice protection is usually stronger and faster to place.
Advantages
• Very strong in soft snow
• Faster than digging a buried picket
• Lightweight and simple
Limitations
• Not ideal in hard snow or ice
• Requires enough snow depth to bury properly
The Deadman snow anchor lets you make the most of this medium and improves on the classic ice axe belay by creating a larger surface area that increases resistance to the placement pulling through. Used in snow gullies and below cornice top outs, the Deadman creates protection out of nothing and provides security in the most insecure places. A t-slot picket is sometimes the preffered alternative.
Large surface area creates resistance to pull through even in soft snow
The large surface area of the Deadman resists being pulled through snow more effectively than an ice axe. This isn’t the strongest option, especially in soft snow. T-slotting a big picket is much more secure.
Lightening holes reduce weight
The Deadman features holes that reduce weight while retaining performance in marginal snow conditions. This means the Deadman won't weigh you down on the mountain where it might be the difference between having some protection and none at all.
Stainless steel striker plate protects Deadman from wear and tear
A stainless steel striking area protects the Deadman from damage when hammering it into the snow, and resists corrosion from the wet winter environment.
4mm galvanized wire creates a strong attachment point
A steel wire loop allows the Deadman to be buried deeply beneath snow while retaining an accessible and strong attachment point.
Specifications
Product Name: Deadman
Product Code: A1300
Weight: 360 g
Number of Copies
2
